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How to Pour a Small Concrete Slab

An average concrete slabs Melbourne project may seem manageable at first glance, but the backbreaking work associated with its completion can stretch over several days. To reduce backbreaking labor time and effort required, hire a “mix and pour” truck which will bring fresh concrete directly to your site, cutting your work hours down by up to half! Doing it this way could cut the project in two.

Set stakes into the ground to mark each corner of your concrete frame.

Preparing the Site

No matter if you’re building a tiny home or barndominium, a concrete slab is an integral component of its foundation. Before pouring a slab on any site it must first be prepared so as to ensure its strength and stability to support whatever structure will sit atop it.

As soon as your site has been cleared of debris that could obstruct the project, such as grass, roots, rocks and old concrete, ensure it is level with no uneven spots on it – this will reduce stress cracks in concrete significantly and ensure stress-free construction! Use a builder’s level or line level to measure multiple spots across your project area to check for an even surface.

Dig down to your desired level for the slab. Pack down the soil using either a hand tamper or plate compactor until compacted; leave an 12-in.-deep and 12-in.-wide trench on all four edges for thicker edges on your concrete slab.

Building the Forms

Once your soil has been compacted and forms constructed, the next step should be preparation for pouring. You can purchase pre-mixed concrete delivered by truck; however, mixing your own allows greater control and is far less expensive.

Mix the concrete either manually or with a power mixer until it reaches the desired consistency. For extra strength, consider adding some cement reinforcement.

Work in a well-ventilated area and wear protective rubber gloves (ideally latex ones), face mask, and protective eyewear to keep yourself safe. A second pair of hands could also come in handy for handling large quantities of wet concrete.

Before pouring, recruit helpers to dole out concrete into forms and spread it using special “come alongs,” which are available from hardware stores and are very cost-effective.

Pouring the Concrete

If you’re ordering bagged concrete mix, calculate how many cubic yards will be necessary by multiplying length, width and depth for your slab’s size; add 10 percent as a buffer against waste or unexpected slab depth variations.

Once your concrete is mixed and set, use a 2×4 plank called a screed board to level it before setting. Fill any low spots with filler before using another screed board pass over its surface to create an even surface for setting.

Rebar or welded wire mesh reinforcement should be added to your slab for additional support, depending on its dimensions. When cutting pieces to fit, set out them out in a 16-inch on center grid pattern and secure them using rebar chairs. Alternatively, welded wire mesh comes pre-marked grid pattern which makes installation even faster.

Finishing the Slab

Once your concrete has been poured, there is a limited window of time before its cement sets and hardens. Work during cooler weather whenever possible as rain or high temperatures may cause it to harden too rapidly, leading to cracks or other surface damage in your finished work.

Sweep a magnesium float over your concrete slab in overlapping passes to flatten, smooth, and push down lumps and voids in it. But be careful – too much floating can weaken it and compromise its integrity.

Avoid tamping the concrete before its screeding has been completed; doing so may increase its water-cement ratio, leading to dusting and scaling later.

Once your concrete is dry, install joints. This prevents cracking where you don’t want it — such as between walls or supports. For a 4-inch-thick slab, space joints 2 – 3 feet apart per foot of slab thickness and cut grooves using either handsaws or power saws to add strength. This step is essential.

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